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Thread: New Arrow Set-up

  1. #11
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    He was actually more broadside then that at the shot. When I said I couldn't see the chest I meant the area between his two front legs. But as he went to go he pulled that left front leg back therefore pulling open his front chest and hit the sternum area probably 3rd rib down from the top. It replays in my mind like slow motion still to this day haha.

    I agree about the tuning, and form thing. I try to get my bow in every year to get tuned up and paper tuned. Form ehh I probably could use a little work, definitely not perfect. Does anyone here shoot 4 fletchings or no? Or tried it?

  2. #12
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    Although, you could say that having a significantly heavy arrow wouldn't have hurt and might have helped right? If I knew I was going to make a perfect shot every time, I'd go with a light arrow (for flat trajectory) and a big honkin mechanical head. Its the fear of a less than optimal shot that keeps me staying with the heavy FMJ's and a fixed head.

    Correct me if you disagree gents...I have a lot to learn in this realm.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTHunter08 View Post
    I agree about the tuning, and form thing. I try to get my bow in every year to get tuned up and paper tuned. Form ehh I probably could use a little work, definitely not perfect. Does anyone here shoot 4 fletchings or no? Or tried it?
    I know some people who shoot 4 fletch. I tried it and didn't see a difference in stability but there is nothing wrong with 4 fletch. Either way I would lean more towards a 2.75-3" higher profile vane for fixed heads 3 fletch or 2-2.75" std profile for 4 fletch

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sneaky_pete000 View Post
    Although, you could say that having a significantly heavy arrow wouldn't have hurt and might have helped right? If I knew I was going to make a perfect shot every time, I'd go with a light arrow (for flat trajectory) and a big honkin mechanical head. Its the fear of a less than optimal shot that keeps me staying with the heavy FMJ's and a fixed head.

    Correct me if you disagree gents...I have a lot to learn in this realm.
    I think you can travel deep down the rabbit hole with this, and it’s probably best to avoid it. You don’t want to wind up like one of those knobs on Archerytalk quoting Dr. Ashby, shooting a 600 grain arrow with a 150 grain single bevel broadhead out of an 80# bow. A 400 grain arrow tipped with a 1”-1 1/4” fixed broadhead should be plenty of oomph for just about any deer. A shot into that front knuckle is always going to be dangerous.

    Quote Originally Posted by shawn_in_MA View Post
    I know some people who shoot 4 fletch. I tried it and didn't see a difference in stability but there is nothing wrong with 4 fletch. Either way I would lean more towards a 2.75-3" higher profile vane for fixed heads 3 fletch or 2-2.75" std profile for 4 fletch
    I know you lose some speed with a helical, how much would a 4 fletch setup slow things down?
    My people call me "Stands on Logging Roads."

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Escout711 View Post
    I think you can travel deep down the rabbit hole with this, and it’s probably best to avoid it. You don’t want to wind up like one of those knobs on Archerytalk quoting Dr. Ashby, shooting a 600 grain arrow with a 150 grain single bevel broadhead out of an 80# bow. A 400 grain arrow tipped with a 1”-1 1/4” fixed broadhead should be plenty of oomph for just about any deer. A shot into that front knuckle is always going to be dangerous.
    Oh yeah, I agree 100%. I didn't mean go off the deep end, just that if your going to err, err on the side of too heavy, as opposed to too light.

  6. #16
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    I’m shooting a 340 spine arrow at around 9.5 GPI 28” long. 70 pound draw weight. I’ve shot muzzy 3 blade 100 grain for years with great success. I got a 3 pack of magnus stingers 125 grain for $10 the other day so I think I’ll give them a try. The lifetime warranty on them is a plus also.

  7. #17
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    Wandling sounds like you and I are shooting a very similar set up. I have a 29" arrow though. I tried shooting muzzy 3 blades probably 8-10 years ago and I couldn't get those damn things to group for me. I'd struggle consistently hitting a paper plate at 30 yards. That was also with an older bow that probably wasn't tuned up very well. AnyWho the one comment I want to make about a lot of this is, what happened last year is certainly a reason why I'm contemplating the change but it isn't the main reason I'm contemplating it. The main reason is the potential of Elk in the next year or two. I know I've heard of people killing elk with expandables, but 99% of the hunters on youtube are shooting some sort of fixed blade and I'm guessing they know a million times more about hunting elk then I do.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTHunter08 View Post
    Wandling sounds like you and I are shooting a very similar set up. I have a 29" arrow though. I tried shooting muzzy 3 blades probably 8-10 years ago and I couldn't get those damn things to group for me. I'd struggle consistently hitting a paper plate at 30 yards. That was also with an older bow that probably wasn't tuned up very well. AnyWho the one comment I want to make about a lot of this is, what happened last year is certainly a reason why I'm contemplating the change but it isn't the main reason I'm contemplating it. The main reason is the potential of Elk in the next year or two. I know I've heard of people killing elk with expandables, but 99% of the hunters on youtube are shooting some sort of fixed blade and I'm guessing they know a million times more about hunting elk then I do.
    i just worked with a guy last night that lived in Colorado for 15 years before moving back to Ohio recently. We were talking about bow setups. He likes fixed blade 125 grain for elk and mule deer. I haven’t shot my magnus heads yet but everything I’ve read and watched about them I think I’ll like them.

  9. #19
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    I’ve been reading and watching a lot about arrow setups. I’m going to get around 500 grain total weight. The easiest and best way to do this is to install brass inserts. I’m going with 75 grain inserts and a 125 grain head. I saw a video testing different weight arrows on a dead hog. He used the same broadhead just different weight arrows. It wasn’t until he got to 500 that he got a pass through. This won’t matter much on Whitetails unless you hit a shoulder but for elk I want the weight.

  10. #20
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    I think my buddy is going to switch to the arrow I'm currently shooting, Easton axis, and I'm going to stick with them. We're both going to go to a 2.25" swift fletch with a helical, and we're going to do the brass insert thing. There is brass inserts for the Easton axis that are 75gr but have a break-off spot that makes them 50gr. I think we're both going to do the 50gr. That'll put me up around 455.5gr, and around a 12% FOC. Probably be teaming this up with a slick trick broadhead. I'd like to chrono my bow at some point but guessing a 275fps speed with that set-up I should be producing around 76.5ft/lbs of KE.

    My old set-up was about 417.5gr, and 8.8 FOC, and produce about 75.3ft/lbs of KE, but this was with an expandable broadhead.

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